The Globe Travel Guide
Iceland The Globe Travel Guide
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© David Williams

Reykjavík: changing cultures in a frontier town

1983

04-4
Page 4
Reykjavík stores natural hot water in these huge tanks on the top of the hill Öskjuhlíð. This now has a restaurant and observation platform on top of the tanks, giving it one of the best views in the city.
This view from Hallgrímskirkja`s observation platform shows the colourful buildings in the city centre.


Many visitors to Iceland shy away from Reykjavík and think of the nightlife as a midnight stroll wondering if its ever going to get dark (those that know it won`t might go out and play golf way past midnight). But nightlife for city types does exist — and how! Foreign tourists are exhorted to "go Viking" with all the beautiful people at Hotel Ísland, though with the drinks` prices `way over the top it`s quite certain who`s being pillaged. Watch out for the "Black Death" — not the disease, but brennivín, the Icelandic schnapps that comes in a bottle with a black label on it. An acquired taste. The Icelanders take the work ethic to heart when going out on the town. However, clubs may be quiet until eleven or so and then get mobbed quickly. The patrons busy drinking are the ones trying to forget the price of the booze — no wonder it`s been referred to as "liquid taxation". And don`t bother to look for the red-light district — there isn`t one.

There weren`t any "pubs" in Iceland until recently as strong beer wasn`t legalized. Before then, the only decent beer available was in the airport`s incoming duty-free shop, one of the perks of leaving the country in the first place. The saddest Icelander I ever saw was one trusting man who gave his young son the prized crate of beer to carry from the airport terminal to the car; the wee boy dropped the lot and the father`s jaw fell like a stone as the bottles smashed. The previous dearth of alcohol was due to pressure from the temperance movement early this century. However, being a pragmatic nation, some alcohol was later allowed in — but only from countries that bought their fish. Today`s youngsters seem to be hell-bent on making up for the drinking time lost by their parents and the innocent-looking Coke bottle carried by the teenage drinkers often holds more vodka than "the real thing".

Night clubs are alright for night-clubbers but are they any different from similar dens anywhere else in the world? Culture vultures could find a cinema or a concert, or perhaps even an opera. But if you want to learn something about what lies beyond the urban jungle without actually stepping outside it, then go to "The Volcano Show". This is a small cinema showing quite remarkable films of eruptions, wildlife and the intimidating but wonderful Icelandic scenery. Normally, Nature isn`t too obliging when you want to photograph an eruption but on one occasion, Hekla (Iceland`s most famous volcano) duly obliged when one of the film-makers was on the mountain working on something else. I don`t know if he felt lucky or not.

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