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© David Williams

Reykjavík: changing cultures in a frontier town

1983

04-3
Page 3
This view of Reykjavík is dominated by the tall and elegant church of Hallgrímskirkja.
This is Laugardalur, the city`s main swimming pool. Even when there is ice around the pool, the water is really warm and very inviting !


To the north-east of Tjörnin is a group of old wooden buildings, collectively known as Bernhöftstorfan. These were very nearly lost due to threatened "redevelopment" but were saved and now house the Tourist Information Centre, some little shops and the delightful Lækjarbrekka restaurant which specializes in seafood. Just in front of this is an open-air chess-set where future Grandmasters (Iceland has already had six) might be spotted. If you find this deserted (or taken over by skateboarders) then check the day`s television schedule — the chess fans might be at home watching a big match on the box!

The architecture of the city`s buildings owes more to the practicalities of living in a cold and damp climate than a wish to emulate classic architectural designs. However, one building that (literally) stands above them all is the tall and elegant church of Hallgrímskirkja, which is on a hill overlooking the whole city. The steeple soars skyward and the view from the top is breathtaking. A statue of the explorer Leif Eiríksson stands in front of the church. Contrary to what many of us were taught in school, this Icelander, not Christopher Columbus, was the first European to "discover" America and "Leif the Lucky" landed there in 1000, some five hundred years before Columbus.

The number five bus goes past Laugardalur. The name means "hot spring valley" and was where people used to wash clothes in the natural hot water. Now they come to the huge open-air swimming pool and practise the country`s most civilized habit — bathing, swimming or just lounging about in the warm water. Many regulars come here before breakfast no matter whether its sunny or snowing. You can swim in the large pool or just relax in the "hot-pots", small pools in which a dozen or so overheated bodies can sit up to their necks in warm water at 37°C or more. (The real hardy souls come here first thing in the morning and collapse into the 45°C pool!) There`s a number of these communal tubs and it`s best to try a few of them to find out which one`s temperature is most bearable. The new waterslide is great fun except when you can`t descend fast enough to escape from the twenty screaming kids that are catching up on you.

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